Dicey? What could have been a tiki torch turns into Vesuvius when slow-starting briquettes are doused with lighter fluid. The pivot on your tongs gets as hot as a hinge on the gates of hell, and the tongs never seem to be long enough to keep you from getting splattered. Around the grill, adult conversations are interrupted as kids chant “burnie-burnie” while a once-happy occasion goes up in flames.  

If beer is the only sauce that makes a backyard barbecue seem like fun, why not stop what you’re doing and ask your guests to join you at Bonnie B’s Smokin’ BBQ Heaven?

Bonnie’s fare elicits its share of second looks and second helpings. It weaves professional techniques with rich ethnic traditions. Bonnie Henderson does the cooking, sister Betty does the counting and nephew Michael serves as waiter. The restaurant reflects a style that uses quality ingredients, with an emphasis on freshness and simplicity — even health — without bastardizing the delicious barbecue.

Briskets are chopped, not sliced, and are succulent and tender enough to pull apart with your fingers. More than any dish, Bonnie’s pork spareribs get style points for keeping alive the Oklahoma spirit that inspired them. None of this tender, baby back rib stuff, where sissies wiggle the meat off the bone. Most restaurants serve these little ribs because they cook quickly and are easily managed. Bonnie’s spareribs, in contrast, are bigger, are at least as tender and possess much, much more flavor.

How does she do it? Sparerib meat is tough and requires low heat and long cooking — “and don’t forget love,” said Bonnie — to break down the meat fiber, render the fat and make the meat succulent and tender. In the smoking barrel process, the smoke from oak briquettes hangs in the cylinder like hot Tule fog in a marsh. This develops flavors more suavely assertive than the flash-fire searing of lesser processes.

But not all smoke tastes the same, as anyone who has ever lit a cigar can attest. Smoked salmon here uses a mixture of mesquite and hickory. 

Beyond her slow-smoking strategies, Bonnie also has deep feelings for her 24-hour marinating and secret dry-rub procedures. “I spend long, loving hours in the kitchen. I love to cook for people. I want my customers to feel that my love for humanity makes a difference,” she said. “I work hard to help them experience being wanted, being valued, being loved. Our barbecued ribs may not be filet mignon, but the closer to the bone, the sweeter the meat.”

Techniques and recipes learned by heart were generated from Bonnie’s mom and uncle, who operated a chain of barbecue houses in Oklahoma City and formulated the secret sauces used today in Bonnie’s kitchen. Later, the Hendersons operated the popular Gellarosa Ranch BBQ in San Diego. Today, Bonnie’s Oklahoma-style barbecue gets points for dipping — not swamping — Louisiana-style pork links. And she wins even more points from vegetarians for cooking vegetables separate from meats. 

Even though your neighborhood pit boss is expert enough to put a velvety crust on every rib bone, he’ll still want to side with Bonnie. Dishes like collard greens, tomatoes over rice, baked beans, potato salad, black-eyed peas so fresh you can almost hear them pop from the pod and candied yams might sideswipe your appetite before main entrees of ribs, chicken and fish appear.

The walls of this little place are textured with photos of esteemed friends and idols of the Hendersons. “Beloved friends and idols,” said Bonnie. A big wall mural depicting life in Oklahoma includes a figure of an overworked cowhand who’s about to fold up like a feed sack in a bunkhouse. Miles Davis’ music often relaxes the room.

With her restaurant’s culinary personality, great tastes, ambiance, moderate prices and generous portions, Bonnie sets a mood you’ll want to be in.